Virtual try-on technologies in the clothing industry. Part 1: investigation of distance ease between body and garment

The aim of the first part of the research was to investigate distance ease distribution between straight shape virtual dress and 3D body in respect to fabrics mechanical (tensile, bending, shear) properties using virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra). The second part would be intended for the basic construction adjustment according to the mechanical properties of textile materials. The objects of the investigations were 100% cotton and cotton-blended plain weave fabrics. Mechanical properties were defined by KES-F (Kawabata). Virtual mannequin was covered with straight virtual dress. Distance ease distribution as well as the values of simulated 3D garment at bust girth ES_{3D_bust} (cm) were investigated. It was defined that distance ease in 3D garment was lower than ease allowance used for 2D basic construction. The strongest effect upon the distance ease between body and garment had tensile strain of fabrics in weft direction.     

基于纬编针织物特性的静电吸附力模型

为提高工业机器人在纺织服装行业的使用率,拓展静电吸附式末端执行器的使用范围,提升服装加工过程中面料自动抓取和转移自动化程度, 以纬编针织物为例,首先分析纬编针织物的结构特性和纤维成分对静电吸附力大小的影响,分别建立了织物单元的三维结构仿真模型和织物相对介电常数的计算模型。在此基础上构建纬编针织物的静电吸附力模型;然后通过仿真软件对模型进行验证。结果表明,利用该模型可计算出静电极板对纬编针织物的吸附力大小。该研究结果为实现面料的自动抓取和转移提供了新的思路。     

竹浆/棉混纺交织物中竹浆纤维含量对织物悬垂性能的影响

通过对不同规格的竹浆纤维/棉混纺交织面料悬垂性能的测试发现:随着纬纱中竹浆纤维含量增加,动、静态悬垂形态特征图中的凸条数明显增多,织物的悬垂感和形态效果得到有效改善。但考虑到服用织物的形态对称性,应避免选用55竹浆/45棉混纺纱与棉纱交织;当织物组织、原料及经密相同时,随着织物中纬密的增大,混纺交织物的悬垂性能呈下降趋势。     

纺织服装产品灰水足迹核算与评价研究进展

综述了灰水足迹核算与评价的研究进展,对纺织服装产品灰水足迹核算与评价中涉及的多污染物影响、时间效应、"潜在水环境影响稀释"和区域评价等关键性问题进行了重点讨论。基于纺织服装产品生产排放废水中污染物种类繁多且理化性质复杂的特点,分析得出:进行纺织服装产品灰水足迹核算时仅考虑特征污染物会导致核算结果偏高,应重点关注多种污染物对水体水质的影响;废水污染物进入水体后会发生不同程度的降解或累积,评价对水环境的影响时需考虑时间效应,以提高灰水足迹核算的准确性;相较于"浓度稀释",从"潜在水环境影响稀释"角度更能体现废水污染物对水环境的实际影响;灰水足迹的核算与评价时纳入区域的水压力指数,可以更准确的评价纺织服装产品生产对区域水资源环境的影响。     

服装松量设计及表征模型构建研究进展

为揭示服装松量与虚拟试衣、服装样板设计的关系,以松量分类为基础,分别从松量影响因素、研究方法及松量表征等3个层面解析服装松量设计。归纳了松量表征方法的特点,阐述了松量表征模型的最新研究进展,分析了松量在虚拟试衣和服装样板设计中的作用。研究表明:有效的松量设计应充分考虑人体着装形态、服装合体性及舒适性等因素,松量的直接表征和间接表征从不同角度体现了服装与人体间的关系;应将松量充分结合至虚拟试衣和服装样板设计,以促进虚拟服装的真实性,实现服装样板的智能化设计。研究认为松量的三维空间表征、连续动态分布和服装三维空间松量预测模型研究是未来主要探索方向。     

弹性紧身衣的纸样放缩量设置

针对弹性紧身衣的推码提出了转换系数的概念,该转换系数由面料拉伸率和穿着拉伸率确定,用于转换各部位及关键点的档差,以保证弹性紧身衣号型系列的合体一致性。     

Diffusion of jojoba oil microencapsulated and impregnated onto compressive garment through a pig skin

Scientific developments are in progress in order to create compressive fabric in the medical field. This study focused on the development of a compressive garment in polyamide designated for severe burns in terms of pressure and hydration release. The fabric was then enhanced by adding a moisturizing treatment. The improvement consisted of the impregnation of ethylcellulose microcapsules containing jojoba oil on the textile surface of compressive garment. The kinetic of release of this active ingredient from the microcapsules, as well as its diffusion through the skin, were assessed using the in vitro Franz diffusion cell system. The results showed a controlled release of jojoba oil over time. The amount of oil released during the experiments (168?h) and that which penetrated through the pig skin did not exceed 1% of the total amount of jojoba oil microencapsulated and impregnated on the surface of a compression garment. This study permitted to obtain a compressive garment which presents hydration properties.     

洗后织物外观平整度客观评级中的若干问题

洗涤过程中,纺织服装受到自身材料性能、机械外力、洗护产品等诸多因素的影响,形态发生改变,降低了外观美感和服用性能。传统的人工主观评级受到多因素的制约,检测精度低且个体评价差异大。本文基于目前国内外客观评级研究现状,着重从技术手段、评价指标、特征分类方法等角度探讨了织物平整度客观评级研究中的若干问题,并对其发展方向作了预测。客观有效地评价织物外观平整度,对纺织材料研发、服装设计、洗涤机械制造及洗涤剂研发等的评估具有重要意义。     

纺织服装辅料表面镍释放量的快速筛选方法

通过对纺织服装附件进行能谱分析时的脉冲处理时间、束斑直径、加速电压、活时间等测量条件进行了研究,选定了最佳测量条件,建立了纺织服装附件表面含镍量的能谱仪检测方法。在此基础上,选择大量不同类型的纺织服装附件,分别使用能谱方法和REACH法规规定标准EN1811:1998+A1：2011进行测试,将两种方法的结果进行对照和分析,研究两种方法数据的相关性,建立了纺织服装附件表面镍释放量检测筛选方法。     

Study of the Mechanical Properties of Fibers Extracted from Tunisian Agave americana L.

Agave americana L. fibers, the most abundant variety in Tunisia, have a quite important textile potential. This potential is demonstrated by studying the extraction of these fibers from leaves, their physical properties such us fineness or density and their mechanical behavior in tensile tests. In this work, results of a mechanical behavior study of fibers extracted from the Agave americana L. plant are presented. These results deal with the principal and mechanical characteristics of these fibers which are the strain at break, the elasticity modulus and the rupture facture. These results permitted to situate these fibers, compared to the other textile fibers, as materials that can be used in technical applications such as reinforcing composites or geotextile. In order to understand the mechanical properties of these fibers, a correlation study between the properties already cited and the fine structure was done. The obtained results showed that the mechanical properties of Agave americana L. fibers are closely related to the individual fibers deformations and to the natural matrix (lignin and gums) that are linked to these elementary fibers.     

服装热湿舒适性研究方法综述

服装和纺织品的舒适性研究是现代纺织服装科技领域的前沿课题之一。它具有重要的理论意义和实用价值。从物理学、生理学、心理学的角度，综述了服装热湿舒适性的研究方法。     

平面设计纹样在纺织品设计中的应用

近年来,平面设计技术在社会各领域中的应用越来越广泛,在服装纺织品设计方面也发挥着越来越重要的作用。在服装纺织品设计过程中,运用平面设计纹样,显著提高了服装纺织品设计的水平和效果。文章分析了平面设计在服装纺织品设计中的优势及具体应用,以期提高服装纺织品设计水平,促进服装行业的可持续发展。     

网络游戏中的服饰文化

采取概括综合以及分析比较的研究方法,提出网络游戏服饰文化的概念,探讨网络游戏服饰文化的特点,研究认为网络游戏服饰文化具有真实虚拟性、超时空性、网络社区性、混合文化性、自由性、夸张性等特点;同时从文化内涵、文化特点、影响因素等方面研究网络游戏服饰文化与现实社会服饰文化的差异。     

数字经济驱动下长三角纺织服装产业数字化提升路径研究

随着国家数字经济战略的实施,纺织服装产业开始以数字化、智能化为主攻方向,以推动纺织服装企业数字化转型升级。基于中国智能制造标准化与工业PaaS平台模型,深入分析数字化技术在纺织服装智能制造中的作用。针对长三角纺织服装产业数字化建设现状进行深入调研与问题分析,在此基础上提出纺织服装产业数字化提升路径,包括搭建纺织服装产业工业互联网平台,促进数字化技术在纺织服装智能制造全过程的应用,推进纺织服装产学研在数字化领域的推广应用,建立纺织服装产业数字化转型评价指标体系,以此促进数字化技术与智能制造技术在纺织服装产业中的两化融合。     

服装缝纫平整度的研究进展

为有效评价服装缝纫外观质量,对国内外服装外观评价标准以及相关研究进行了梳理,分别从织物性能与缝纫条件2个方面归纳了表征服装外观质量级别的接缝外观平整度的影响因素,探讨了缝纫平整度的主观、客观评价方法,从多因子角度综合分析缝纫工艺因素对平整度的影响。认为需提高织物物理力学性能与织物缝纫褶皱等级之间的数学模型的精度,改进基于面料物理性能指标的平整度预测模型,开展曲线接缝服装部件的平整度研究,并建立服装外观质量智能评价新模型。同时从服装生产制作角度对服装缝纫平整度的研究方向进行展望。     

低损耗纬编成形女士背心的结构设计与建模

为降低纬编成形背心织造工序的原料损耗和生产能耗,以女士紧身短背心为开发对象,进行结构建模与工艺实践。首先将传统纬编成形背心纵向织造的宽肩带转化为横向织造的矩形肩带,其次对背心进行功能分区,设计不同性能的无缝组织。然后通过虚拟仿真,参数可视化建模调整分区结构与数值,实际织造后对比结构转化前后的损耗。结果表明:通过对纬编成形背心的结构转化并进行功能分区、可视化建模,进行工艺参数的调节,实现了低损耗与高效率兼顾的纬编成形女士紧身短背心的生产,为纬编成形服装结构转化与节能产品开发提供参考。     

Investigating the mechanical behavior of composites made from textile industry waste

Recycling the waste for environmental protection has been an important challenge for the mankind. The fibrous waste in textile industry accounts for approximately 15% of the amount of fibers used, leading to a lower yield %. The current study focused to use this waste as reinforcement to produce a fiber-reinforced polymer composites. Reinforcements were woven in 3/1 S twill, using yarn produced from noil waste and knitting waste in the weft direction. The weft yarn count, type of waste material and number of picks were the variables of study. Laminated composites were fabricated from these reinforcements and the mechanical properties (tensile, bending and impact) were compared to the conventional glass fiber composites. The specific mechanical properties of these composites were found comparable or less than that of glass fiber composites.     

纺织品服装产品的环保和安全健康性能

本文介绍了与绿色壁垒相关的纺织品服装品质检验项目的内容 ,我国纺织品服装行业开展产品环保和安全健康性能研究的有关情况以及提高该性能的途径     

Responses of fabric from lyocell/natural bamboo yarn to loading

With the growing demand for more comfortable, healthier and environmentally friendly products, research and development has been increasingly focusing on new environmentally friendly materials and products. One of the environmentally friendly materials is the bamboo fibre with its numerous favourable performing properties. The use of bamboo fibres increases every year, which was the main reason for choosing yarn from the mixture of lyocell fibres and natural bamboo fibres with the ratio 80/20 for the research. With the research, the tensile behaviour of woven fabrics with cotton yarn in warp and lyocell/natural bamboo yarn in the weft direction in comparison with cotton woven fabrics was studied. Twelve fabrics which differed in their construction properties were designed and produced. Two different weaves were chosen, i.e. plain and twill weave, and three different densities in weft. The results of the research show that the presence of lyocell/natural bamboo yarn in the weft direction improves the mechanical properties such as breaking stress, stress in the yield point, elasticity modulus in the weft direction of analysed fabrics, while in the warp direction, the weave type and weave density express a greater influence on the mechanical properties of analysed fabrics.     

图像处理技术在服装褶皱评价中的应用

对图像处理技术在纺织服装领域的应用成果进行了回顾,在此基础上探讨了该技术在服装表面褶皱评价领域的应用基础和原理。分析了服装褶皱的形成方法和穿着后所产生的视觉效果,提出了从服装表面提取褶皱图像的方法。经过对图像的处理提取了以灰度为基础的评价指标体系,提出了褶皱数、褶皱深度、褶皱宽度和褶皱不匀度等服装褶皱的评价指标,以期对服装表面褶皱这一视觉效果进行数字化描述。研究结果表明这些评价指标能够很好地反映服装表面褶皱的形态特征。