Studies on cotton–acrylic bulked yarns produced from different spinning technologies. Part I: yarn characteristics

The effects of different factors, namely spinning technologies (ring, rotor and DREF-II, i.e. Group A yarns), position of shrinkable acrylic feed sliver in DREF-II friction spinning system (Group B yarns) and proportion of shrinkable acrylic core fibre in core-sheath type DREF-III friction spun yarns (Group C yarns) on various properties of cotton-acrylic–blended bulked yarns have been studied. The bulk in the yarns was developed by relaxing shrinkable acrylic component of the yarns using boiling water treatment. All the above factors have a significant impact on various properties of cotton–acrylic blended bulked yarns. For all the yarns, after boiling treatment, there is lengthwise shrinkage of yarns and the specific volume also increases. Tenacity and breaking elongation of all the yarns of Group A and Group B increase after hot water treatment, whereas in case of core-sheath type DREF-III yarns (Group C yarns) there is drop in tenacity and breaking elongation after similar treatment. In general, for all the yarns the flexural rigidity of the yarns reduces and compressibility and compressional recovery of increases after bulking treatment.     

Tensile and Frictional Properties of Wool-Cotton Union Khadi Fabrics

ABSTRACT

This paper describes the tensile and frictional behavior of wool-cotton union fabrics developed using different wool-cotton blended warp yarns, and mixed wool weft yarns spun on khadi spinning system. The tenacity and elongation at break of fabric increase with the blending of cotton with JK crossbred wool in the warp direction and high content of Australian merino wool in the weft direction, however, initial modulus decreases. The static and dynamic coefficient of friction positively correlates to the wool content in warp yarn and negatively correlates with linear density and the proportion of Australian merino wool in weft yarn.     

Study on microclimate conditions for woven fabrics from cotton-acrylic bulked yarn

The present work is concerned with the study of the microclimate conditions with plain woven fabrics produced with cotton-acrylic high-bulk yarns. Cotton-acrylic bulked yarns of various yarn counts, proportion of shrinkable acrylic fibre and twist levels have been prepared as per the three-variable three-level factorial design technique proposed by Box and Behnken to study the interaction effects of the variables on the microclimate conditions. The influence of these three variables on various microclimate conditions i.e. initial increase in microclimate temperature and relative humidity without air flow and drop in microclimate temperature and relative humidity when air flows at 1.12?m/s through the outer surface of fabrics. The response surface equations for all the microclimate parameters have been derived and the contour plots were obtained to analyse the interactive effect of all the variables on microclimate parameters. These bulked fabrics show higher initial increase in microclimate temperature without air flow and lower drop in microclimate temperature with air flow as compared to equivalent 100% cotton fabrics. All the variables were found to have significant effects on microclimate parameters.     

Studies on cotton–acrylic bulked yarns and fabrics. Part I: Yarn characteristics

The effect of variables, namely yarn fineness, shrinkable acrylic proportion and twist level, on various properties of cotton–acrylic blended bulked yarns has been studied by relaxing shrinkable component of the yarns using boiling water treatment. A three-variable factorial design technique proposed by Box and Behnken was used to investigate the combined interaction effect of the above variables on the properties of these yarns. The design variables were optimized for all the yarn properties by using the response surface equations. The shrinkage percentage of yarn was found to be higher in the case of coarser yarn, yarn with higher proportion of acrylic fibre and higher twist level. During bulking treatment as the yarns shrink, the effective number of twist per unit length also increases significantly. It is observed that the specific volume of the yarn increases with an increase in the acrylic proportion and decreases with an increase in the twist factor. The breaking extension increases significantly after bulking with a slight increase in tenacity. The flexural rigidity and initial modulus of yarn considerably decrease on bulking. The vertical wicking heights for all the bulked yarns were found to be higher than comparable 100% cotton yarn.     

The effect of blend ratios of unrelaxed and relaxed acrylic fibres on physical properties of high-bulk worsted yarns

Abstract

High-bulk acrylic yarns which contract and increase in bulk during the heat relaxation process are produced by blending two types of fibres with different shrinking power in the spinning process. In this paper, high-bulk acrylic yarns (steamed and dyed) with different shrinkable fibre blending ratios were produced. Experimental results show that by increasing the shrinkable fibre blending ratio up to 40%, the specific volume and shrinkage of both dyed and high-bulk acrylic yarns are steadily increased while their tensile strengths are decreased. Further increasing the shrinkable fibre blending ratio causes the specific volume and tensile strength properties to decreased and increased respectively. However, the yarn shrinkage does not change significantly. It is also found that both dyed and high-bulk acrylic yarns have the highest elongation at 20% shrinkable fibre blending ratio. In general, the specific volume and tensile strength of high-bulk acrylic yarns are more than those of dyed acrylic yarns but their shrinkage and elongation values are similar.     

基于环锭细纱机的彩色纺纱及其产品创新

纵观每年举办的国际流行纱线展,创新的针织面料有很大一部分是基于纱线色彩的多样拼接和搭配,以此呈现出不同风格及效果。因此,愈加多元丰富的面料对纱线提出了新的要求,需要以纱线为基础载体呈现多样的颜色风格及效果。目前,有色彩效果的纱线开发和研究主要聚焦在3个方面:一是基于环锭细纱机生产的段彩纱、云纹纱、麻灰纱等;二是基于四色针梳机开发的渐变色彩纱;三是基于其他新型纺纱方法,如摩擦纺、转杯纺等纺纱方法开发的纱线。文章基于前期分别在四色针梳机和摩擦纺纱机上开发不同风格彩色纱线的工作,主要介绍近期新研发的彩色纱线,分析用环锭细纱机研发彩色纱线的创新方向。     

Study on needle‐punched nonwoven fabrics made from shrinkable and non‐shrinkable acrylic blends. Part III: filtration characteristics

This paper reports the filtration behaviours of needle‐punched bulked nonwoven fabrics made from shrinkable and non‐shrinkable acrylic blends. The basic idea of the present work is to explore the possibility of structural changes in needle‐punched nonwoven fabrics made from blends of shrinkable and non‐shrinkable acrylic fibres, as in the case of an acrylic bulked yarn, to improve the filtration behaviour. In Part I and Part II of this series, compressional and transmission characteristics of these fabrics were reported, respectively. The effects of variables, namely fabric areal density, needle punch density and the proportion of shrinkable acrylic fibre in the blend, on various filtration‐related properties of needle‐punched nonwoven fabrics have been studied by relaxing the shrinkable component of the fabric using hot steam treatment. A three‐variable factorial design technique proposed by Box and Behnken was used to investigate the combined interaction effect of the above variables on the filtration properties of these fabrics. The fabric areal density and needle punch density were found to have a significant effect on filtration efficiency as well as pressure drop. The proportion of shrinkable acrylic fibre has little effect on filtration efficiency, but the trends are dependent on the needle punch density.     

腈纶起毛起球的影响因素研究

通过实验、测试并比较分析新型腈纶纱线与普通腈纶纱线性能,并对采用上述两种腈纶纱线编织不同密度的织物性能进行测试比较。     

摩擦纺包芯纱织物性能测试分析

对棉包涤纶长丝摩擦纱、棉包锦纶高弹丝摩擦纱、棉包锦纶全牵伸丝摩擦纱以及棉包粘胶长丝摩擦纱四种平纹织物的性能进行了试验研究 ,并将它们与纯棉环锭纱和纯棉摩擦纱的平纹织物的性能进行了比较分析。研究结果表明 ,棉包涤纶长丝摩擦纱织物和棉包锦纶高弹丝摩擦纱织物在服用、舒适等方面均优于环锭纱织物。这两种摩擦纺包芯纱织物作为服用织物具有良好的发展前景     

Effect of cotton fiber and yarn characteristics on color variation in woven fabric dyed with vat dyes

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of cotton fiber and yarn characteristics on the color variation of woven fabrics dyed with vat dyes. A fabric length of 31?m was woven so that each meter of the fabric comprised weft yarns of slightly different cotton fiber or yarn characteristics as compared to the other. The woven fabric was pretreated and dyed with vat dyes using industrial-scale, pad-dry-chemical-pad-steam process. After dyeing it was found that the fabric containing weft yarns made from cotton with higher reflectance (Rd) values gave poor color strength as compared to that of lower Rd values. Fabric comprising combed weft yarns showed better color depth (K/S) values as compared to that comprising carded weft yarns made from the same raw cotton. Furthermore, the fabric comprising finer- or lower-twist weft yarns gave higher color depth as compared to that with coarser or higher-twist weft yarns. It was concluded that slight variations in the cotton or yarn characteristics in the weft yarns could result in significant shade variations in the vat-dyed fabric.     

仪纶~(TM)纬平针织物的抗起毛起球性能

本文分别选用环锭纺、赛络纺、赛络紧密纺纺纱工艺,制备了同等纱支的仪纶~(TM)纯纺、仪纶~(TM)/棉(65/35)混纺针织纱线及其纬平针织物,对比测试了纱线性能及其织物抗起毛起球性能。实验结果显示:不同纺纱工艺的仪纶~(TM)针织纱线总体性能相似,赛络紧密纺纱线纱体结构更均匀;赛络纺织物的抗起毛起球性较环锭纺织物高0.5级,赛络紧密纺织物的抗起毛起球性明显好于环锭纺织物;混纺织物的抗起毛起球等级和起球粒数均有所改善。     

Analysis of mechanical and dimensional properties of the denim fabrics produced with double-core and core-spun weft yarns with different weft densities

Elastic structures are preferred for improving the elasticity and recovery properties of denim fabrics. With the intention of improving comfort during body movements in denim jeans, 10–35% elasticity is required. In this study, the effect of the composition of double-core (dual-core) and core-spun weft yarns and weft density on the mechanical properties of denim fabrics was investigated. For this purpose, different core materials were used in the production of elastic yarns. The sheath material was cotton for all yarn types. Yarn samples were spun with the same yarn count and twist coefficient. 100% cotton Ne 8/1 Ring slub warp yarns were used as warp yarn while double-core and core-spun yarns were used as weft yarns in weaving. The weaving process was performed with three different weft density values (16, 22, and 28 weft /cm) and the other production parameters were kept constant. Twill 3/1 woven fabrics were treated according to standard denim finishing procedures. After domestic washing processes, mechanical properties of the samples were tested and statistically evaluated.     

The functionality of woven fabric from air-jet yarn from the mixture of CO/PA and CO/PES fibres in the weft direction

The purpose of presented research is to find out the influence of air-jet yarn from the mixture of CO/PA (50/50) and CO/PES (67/33) fibres on functionality of woven fabric in the plain weave.The first part of the study is directed to the mechanical and physical properties of air-jet yarns (16.7 tex) from CO/PA and CO/PES fibres, while the second part of the study focuses on permeability properties of fabrics with air-jet yarns in the weft. The results show that air-jet yarn in the weft direction influences on the water vapor transmission and thermal conduction increase and air permeability decrease.Incorporation of air-jet yarn in the weft direction also improves breaking extension level.The results of presented research also show that the incorporation of air-jet yarn in the weft has statistical important influence on thermal conduction, water-vapor and air permeability changes.     

外衣用棉经编织物结构设计与生产工艺

利用棉纱和经编技术的特性,针对棉纱的断裂强力和毛羽难以满足经编用纱要求的问题,提出了棉纱在经编中应用的关键技术;给出了从纺纱方法、整经及织造工艺过程中尝试采用的解决措施,选用集聚纺棉纱,在整经时加白油使棉纱毛羽贴伏以减小与成圈机件的摩擦,在分纱筘上将棉纱分为２ 层以减少纱线间摩擦,降低表观毛羽间的纠缠,最后从经编结构和工艺设计角度出发开发了２ 款棉经编外衣面料,利用棉纱作衬纬组织与前梳纱线形成闪避效应获得一面棉一面涤的双面效应,棉纱作成圈组织配合空穿形成斜纹效应。     

Investigation on permeability and moisture management properties of different denim fabrics after repeated laundering

The physiological comfort determined by air permeability and moisture management properties of fabrics is influenced by various constructional parameters of the fabric which give woven fabric a porous structure. Evaporation of sweat during wear has the potential to cool the body besides restricting the additional weight of sweat being absorbed by the fabric. In this study, comfort characteristics of denim fabrics with different weft yarn of cotton, polyester and core spun Lycra have been discussed. Effect of enzyme washing and repeated laundering on air permeability, moisture management and drying rate has also been discussed. It was observed that air permeability and water vapour permeability of unwashed denim fabrics with cotton weft yarn are significantly higher than the fabric with polyester and Lycra cotton weft yarns. The wetting time is higher for cotton and Lycra cotton yarn fabrics. One-way transport index is highest for Lycra cotton weft fabrics and lowest for fabrics with polyester weft. Fabrics with polyester weft yarns show highest spreading rate, spreading radius and drying rate due to better wicking and hydrophobic nature of polyester fibres.     

The Effect of Yarn Twist and Fibre Percentage in Blends on the Dimensional Properties of the Interlock Structure

An account is given of an investigation of the dimensional properties of a series of interlock weft knitted fabrics produced from open-end cotton-polyester blended yarns with different yarn twist, loop length, fibre percentage in blend, and variety of relaxation treatments. A comprehensive experimental analysis shows that the Ks value (stitch density multiplied by the square of loop length) is related to yarn density, fibre percentage in blends, and relaxation treatments. It is also concluded that the correct relaxation state for cotton fabrics to reach the maximum shrinkage is full mechanical relaxation, and for cotton polyester blended and 100% polyester fabrics is chemical relaxation treatment. The empirical results show that the effect of mechanical relaxation decreases as the percentage of polyester in blends increases.     

Investigation of antibacterial and antifungal properties of tufting carpets containing metal composite yarns

In this research, antimicrobial (antibacterial and antifungal) properties of tufting carpets containing metal/texturized polyester composite yarns were investigated. Carpet contains different yarn groups such as pile yarns, ground warps and wefts. Backing fabric’s warp and weft yarns are suitable for gaining antimicrobial activity because of their placement and low usage amount. Thus, textured polyester yarns were commingled with copper, stainless steel metal wires and silver metalized polyamide yarn. Backing fabrics were produced with four different placements by composite yarns. Antibacterial activity tests were applied to carpet samples according to AATCC 100 standard against K. pneumoniae and S. aureus bacteria. AATCC 30 – Part 3 standard was used for determining antifungal activity against A. niger. Results show that the antibacterial activity increases with increasing in the amount of metal composite yarn in unit area. Carpet samples which include copper or metalized silver composite yarn in all warps showed antibacterial activity about 99%. Moreover, antifungal activity can be provided against A. niger when copper and metalized silver composite yarn is used in all warps of carpet samples.     

Evaluation of diamond bar patterns on fabric surface using an image analysis technique

The main aim of this work is to study of the effect of yarn periodic irregularities on the plain weave fabric appearance using an image analysis method. The pattern of fabric faults was simulated using a prepared computer program. In the experimental stage, two different types of yarn were prepared. The first yarn was produced with a certain wavelength and the second yarn was prepared with a strong periodic irregularity using an open-end spinning machine. The wavelength of the open-end yarn fault was measured by using an Uster 4 automatic evenness tester. For practical examination, the yarns were used as weft in a shuttle loom machine and two types of fabrics were produced. Using image processing, the number and size of the diamond bar patterns, and also the theoretical wavelength of the weft yarn, were calculated. The wavelengths calculated theoretically were compared with the actual wavelengths of the weft yarns. The results showed an acceptable accuracy of the method.     

Vortex spinning technology

The latest development in air jet spinning technology is the Murata Vortex Spinner (MVS), which was firstly introduced at Osaka International Textile Machinery Show OTEMAS '97 by Murata Machinery Ltd. targeting the regular wear and casual fashion markets. Besides the main characteristics of modern spinning technologies, such as elimination of processing stages and ease of automation, distinctive features of the system are claimed to be the capability of spinning 100% carded cotton yarn and obtaining ring-like yarn structure at extremely high production speeds of up to 500 m/min. This paper outlines the historical background of vortex spinning technology, the spinning principle and the structure of the yarn spun on this system, as well as the factors having impacts on the yarn quality and hence on the end use properties. In addition, the properties of the vortex yarns and fabrics are evaluated in comparison to other spun yarns and fabrics. Finally, the paper deals with the economics of this novel system.     

喷气织机车速对织物纬向物理力学性能的影响

为研究织物纬向物理力学性能与喷气织机车速的关系,测试了不同车速织机生产织物两侧的捻度差异。采用分段拆纱取样法分别对不同车速下所织织物纬纱两侧捻度及强伸性、织物强伸性、抗弯长度及染色性能进行测试与分析。结果表明：车速越低,纬纱退捻产生问题越多,织物两侧色差越大;车速越高,纬纱飞越梭口时处于无握持状态时间越短,纬纱退捻量减少,织物两侧纬纱捻度、强力损失减小,废边侧织物断裂强力及抗弯刚度损失减小,织物两侧染色效果变化较小,但车速增加对原纱要求提高,因此,选择合适车速,是喷气引纬提高产质量的关键。