服装生产过程碳排放量核算

为研究服装生产过程碳排放量计算模型在实际生产中的应用以及服装生产过程碳排放量对环境产生的影响,对量化模型进行应用分析。以男衬衫生产实践为例,对该款男衬衫进行流程分析、功能单位分析、数据搜集和碳排放量计算。碳排放量化计算结果表明,男衬衫生产过程中,生产过程的碳排放量大于男衬衫所用面料产生的碳排放量,且缝制环节产生的碳排放量最高。给出的碳排放量计算流程和方法同样适用于其他款式服装的生产过程,可为服装生产企业进行碳排放监督与评价提供依据与参考。     

服装缝制生产碳排放源及计算模型

为研究服装缝制生产阶段碳排放,提出了服装缝制生产碳排放的概念,并根据服装缝制生产过程确定了碳排放源为能源、设备运行、场内运输和作业人员呼吸。在此基础上,对不同碳排放源建立相应计算模型,最后构建了服装缝制生产环节碳排放理论计算模型。     

服装销售环节的碳足迹评价研究

在服装全生命周期碳排放过程中,服装销售环节的碳排放问题不容忽视。文章详细描述了服装从出厂到消费者手中的销售环节,并从传统销售环节和网络销售环节2个方面阐述了温室效应气体(GHG)的排放源。在此基础上,主要探讨服装销售环节的碳足迹,通过绘制服装从出厂到消费者手中这一阶段的流程图、界定边界、收集数据等步骤来计算服装销售环节的碳足迹,并根据分析结果进行影响评价。对服装销售环节碳足迹的定量评价,促进减少温室气体的排放,有助于服装产业的可持续发展。     

服装产业全生命周期低碳模式探究

在对服装生命周期进行分析的基础上,对服装生命周期各阶段的碳排放情况进行了分析,并在此基础上,从服装的设计、生产、运输、消费、回收等5个环节分析了实现服装产业低碳模式的基本思路。     

无缝针织服装常见疵点分析

生产过程中的疵点是影响无缝针织服装成衣质量的一大问题。根据企业实际生产情况,从检测标准、纱线、织造、染整等生产环节分析常见无缝针织服装疵点特征与形成原因,为该类产品企业生产中质量控制提供一定的理论依据和技术参考。     

服装材料生产过程中的碳排放分析

为了了解和认识服装材料生产中的碳足迹,简述了服装材料生产中的碳排放种类和碳排放源,介绍了纺织服装业的碳排放现状,指出:印染行业是整个纺织服装行业中能耗、水耗及废水排放量最大的行业;漂白和洗涤工序是印染加工中耗水量最大的工序,退浆和精练工序已成为印染加工中COD值和污染负荷最大的工序。采用流程分析法分析了纺织及染整环节的碳排放,结果表明:服装材料生产各环节都会产生碳排放,而浆纱、前处理工序的能耗、水耗和废水COD值较高。认为:减少纺纱、织造和染整等生产原材料消耗、生产活动及废水废物所产生的碳排放,选择和采用生态环保的生产工艺和技术,可减少服装材料生产中的碳排放。     

服装企业组织碳足迹评价分析

以全球知名牛仔裤品牌商李维斯(Levi's)为例,纵观国际服装企业如何进行组织碳足迹评价。李维斯公司自2006年开始进行温室气体排放数据收集和核算,通过对其美洲区机构、全球机构、各类运营环节、及企业各类能耗的组织碳排放量核查和碳足迹评价,了解企业经营活动的主要碳排放源和能耗类型,以采取有效的碳减排措施。文章对李维斯企业组织碳足迹评价分析,为我国服装企业开展相关工作提供参考。     

服装产业链低碳升级研究

在对服装产业链定义进行界定的基础上,指出服装产业链涉及范围应包含原材料生产、织物处理、印染加工、成衣制造、销售、废旧服装回收再利用等环节,将废旧衣物回收引入产业链分析,提出了全新的服装产业链闭环的概念,在此基础上,依据碳足迹的相关理论,具体分析了服装产业链各环节的碳排放情况,并针对产业链的各个环节提出了实现产业碳减排,从而实现整个服装产业低碳升级的具体路径,从碳足迹的角度对服装产业升级理论进行了全新的诠释。     

服装缝制生产物料的低碳配送路径优化

为减少服装缝制生产物料配送环节的碳排放量,以及物料配送路径和作业人员数量不易确定的问题,提出一个以物料配送碳排放最少和配送车辆数最少为目标的多目标优化模型。以工序流程、机器种类、服装部件3种工作地布置方式的男式衬衫生产线为例,采用NSGA-Ⅱ算法对其物料配送优化问题进行求解。结果表明:3种工作地布置方式均需要4名作业人员进行配送;按照机器种类工作地布置方式的物料配送作业人员行走的总距离最少(2 979 m),产生的碳排放量也最少(0.157 kgCO₂e);按照服装部件工作地布置方式的物料配送作业人员行走的总距离和产生的碳排放量最多。通过算例验证了模型和算法的可行性和有效性,可为服装生产企业提供多种物料低碳配送模型。     

服装大批量定制企业订单实施绩效的衡量

为促进我国服装企业有效实施大批量定制,针对服装大批量定制企业订单实施绩效分析这个新领域。把服装企业生产过程信息与绩效方法结合运用到订单实施过程中,通过对服装大批量定制企业服装生产各环节进行分析,提出了服装大批量定制企业订单实施绩效衡量数学模型。该方法对产品生产和售后服务2方面进行订单跟踪和客户满意度评估,及时反馈订单实施程度信息及客户满意信息,使企业不断发现问题,进行资源补偿,使订单顺利实施并不断完善订单优化设计。通过具体例子说明了该方法的合理性和有效性。     

Reliable identification of grapevine rootstock varieties using RAPD PCR on woody samples

Since grapevine ( Vitis spp .) rootstock material is being traded increasingly as disbudded woody material a lack of distinctive morphological features on such material necessitates an alternative and reliable means of identification. Methods described here were developed for rapid and efficient extraction of DNA from woody samples rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides, and for subsequent identification of varieties by RAPD PCR. Using these methods, and with the application of only one selected RAPD primer, we were able to differentiate sixteen rootstock varieties, including the seven varieties most commonly used in Germany. Problems commonly encountered with reproducibility of RAPD patterns were avoided by choosing primers with a dinucleotide sequence and a high G/C content that allowed a rather high annealing temperature of 45°C. Methods described here should also be useful for other horticultural crops, especially those with woody tissues rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides.     

An internet compendium of analytical methods and spectroscopic information for monomers and additives used in food packaging plastics

An internet website (http://cpf.jrc.it/smt/) has been produced as a means of dissemination of methods of analysis and supporting spectroscopic information on monomers and additives used for food contact materials (principally packaging). The site which is aimed primarily at assisting food control laboratories in the European Union contains analytical information on monomers, starting substances and additives used in the manufacture of plastics materials. A searchable index is provided giving PM and CAS numbers for each of 255 substances. For each substance a data sheet gives regulatory information, chemical structures, physico-chemical information and background information on the use of the substance in particular plastics, and the food packaging applications. For monomers and starting substances (155 compounds) the infra-red and mass spectra are provided, and for additives (100 compounds); additionally proton NMR are available for about 50% of the entries. Where analytical methods have been developed for determining these substances as residual amounts in plastics or as trace amounts in food simulants these methods are also on the website. All information is provided in portable document file (PDF) format which means that high quality copies can be readily printed, using freely available Adobe Acrobat Reader software. The website will in future be maintained and up-dated by the European Commission's Joint Research Centre (JRC) as new substances are authorized for use by the European Commission (DG-ENTR formerly DGIII). Where analytical laboratories (food control or other) require reference substances these can be obtained free-ofcharge from a reference collection housed at the JRC and maintained in conjunction with this website compendium.     

Chlorohydrins of bisphenol A diglycidyl ether (BADGE) and of bisphenol F diglycidyl ether (BFDGE) in canned foods and ready-to-drink coffees from the Japanese market

BADGE.2HCl and BFDGE.2HCl were determined in 28 samples of ready-to-drink canned coffee and 18 samples of canned vegetables (10 corn, 5 tomatoes and 3 others), all from the Japanese market. HPLC was used as the principal analytical method and GCMS for confirmation of relevant LC fractions. BADGE.2HCl was found to be present in one canned coffee and five samples of corn, BFDGE.2HCl in four samples of canned tomatoes and in one canned corn. No sample was found which exceeded the 1mg/kg limit of the EU for the BADGE chlorohydrins. However the highest concentration was found for the sum of BFDGE.2HCl and BFDGE.HCl.H₂O at a level of 1.5mg/kg. A Beilstein test confirmed that all cans containing foods contaminated with BADGE.2HCl or BFDGE.2HCl had at lest one part coated with a PVC organosol.     

European priorities for research to support legislation in the area of food contact materials and articles

A strong science base is required to underpin the planning and decision-making process involved in determining future European community legislation on materials and articles in contact with food. Significant progress has been made in the past 5 years in European funded work in this area, with many developments contributing to a much better understanding of the migration process, and better and simpler approaches to food control. In this paper this progress is reviewed against previously identified work-areas (identified in 1994) and conclusions are reached about future requirements for R&D to support legislation on food contact materials and articles over the next 5 or so years.     

Textural Properties of Cold-set Gels Induced from Heat-denatured Whey Protein Isolates

A 9% whey protein (WP) isolate solution at pH 7.0 was heat-denatured at 80°C for 30 min. Size-exclusion HPLC showed that native WP formed soluble aggregates after heat-treatment. Additions of CaCl2 (10–40 mM), NaCl (50–400 mM) or glucono-delta-lactone (GDL, 0.4–2.0%, w/v) or hydrolysis by a protease from Bacillus licheniformis caused gelation of the denatured solution at 45°C. Textural parameters, hardness, adhesiveness, and cohesiveness of the gels so formed changed markedly with concentration of added salts or pH by added GDL. Maximum gel hardness occurred at 200 mM NaCl or pH 4.7. Increasing CaCl2 concentration continuously increased gel hardness. Generally, GDL-induced gels were harder than salt-induced gels, and much harder than the protease-induced gel.     

Aroma characterization of various apricot varieties using headspace–solid phase microextraction combined with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry and gas chromatography–olfactometry

The characterization of the aromatic profile of several apricot cultivars with molecular tracers in order to obtain objective data concerning the aromatic quality of this fruit was undertaken using headspace–solid phase microextraction (HS–SPME). Six apricot cultivars were selected according to their organoleptic characteristics: Iranien, Orangered, Goldrich, Hargrand, Rouge du Roussillon and A4025. The aromatic intensity of these varieties measured by HS–SPME–Olfactometry were defined and classified according to the presence and the intensity of grassy, fruity and apricot like notes. In the six varieties, 23 common volatile compounds were identified by HS–SPME–GC–MS. Finally, 10 compounds, ethyl acetate, hexyl acetate, limonene, β-cyclocitral, γ-decalactone, 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one, linalool, β-ionone, menthone and (E)-hexen-2-al were recognized by HS–SPME–GC–O as responsible of the aromatic notes involved in apricot aroma and considered as molecular tracers of apricot aromatic quality which could be utilized to discriminate apricot varieties.     

Tests of potential functional barriers for laminated multilayer food packages. Part I: Low molecular weight permeants

The advent of the functional barrier concept in food packaging has brought with it a requirement for fast tests of permeation through potential barrier materials. In such tests it would be convenient for both foodstuffs and materials below the functional barrier (sub-barrier materials) to be represented by standard simulants. By means of inverse gas chromatography, liquid paraffin spiked with appropriate permeants was considered as a potential simulant of sub-barrier materials based on polypropylene (PP) or similar polyolefins. Experiments were performed to characterize the kinetics of the permeation of low molecular weight model permeants (octene, toluene and isopropanol) from liquid paraffin, through a surrogate potential functional barrier (25 μm-thick oriented PP) into the food simulants olive oil and 3% (w/v) acetic acid. These permeation results were interpreted in terms of three permeation kinetic models regarding the solubility of a particular model permeant in the post-barrier medium (i.e. the food simulant). The results obtained justify the development and evaluation of liquid sub-barrier simulants that would allow flexible yet rigorous testing of new laminated multilayer packaging materials.     

Occurrence of bisphenol-F-diglycidyl ether (BFDGE) in fish canned in oil

The levels of bisphenol-F-diglycidyl ether (BFDGE) were quantified as part of a European survey on the migration of residues of epoxy resins into oil from canned fish. The contents of BFDGE in cans, lids and fish collected from all 15 Member States of the European Union and Switzerland were analysed in 382 samples. Cans and lids were separately extracted with acetonitrile. The extraction from fish was carried out with hexane followed by re-extraction with acetonitrile. The analysis was performed by reverse phase HPL C with fluorescence detection. BFDGE could be detected in 12% of the fish, 24% of the cans and 18% of the lids. Only 3% of the fish contained BFDGE in concentrations considerably above 1mg/kg. In addition to the presented data, a comparison was made with the levels of BADGE (bisphenol-A-diglycidyl ether)analysed in the same products in the context of a previous study.     

Contribution of European research to risk analysis

The European Commission's, Quality of Life Research Programme, Key Action 1—Health, Food & Nutrition is mission-oriented and aims, amongst other things, at providing a healthy, safe and high-quality food supply leading to reinforced consumer confidence in the safety of European food. Its objectives also include the enhancing of the competitiveness of the European food supply. Key Action 1 is currently supporting a number of different types of European collaborative projects in the area of risk analysis. The objectives of these projects range from the development and validation of prevention strategies including the reduction of consumers risks; development and validation of new modelling approaches; harmonization of risk assessment principles, methodologies, and terminology; standardization of methods and systems used for the safety evaluation of transgenic food; providing of tools for the evaluation of human viral contamination of shellfish and quality control; new methodologies for assessing the potential of unintended effects of genetically modified (genetically modified) foods; development of a risk assessment model for Cryptosporidium parvum related to the food and water industries; to the development of a communication platform for genetically modified organism, producers, retailers, regulatory authorities and consumer groups to improve safety assessment procedures, risk management strategies and risk communication; development and validation of new methods for safety testing of transgenic food; evaluation of the safety and efficacy of iron supplementation in pregnant women; evaluation of the potential cancer-preventing activity of pro- and pre-biotic ('synbiotic') combinations in human volunteers. An overview of these projects is presented here.     

Influence des ions sur le pouvoir hydratant de l'ure e: e tude sur peau de porc ex vivo

This study deals with the influence of ions (NaCl and MgSO4) in a W/O emulsion containing 10% urea. Moisturization kinetics are assessed by corneometry on pig skin ex vivo. The formula's influence on urea penetration is measured by infrared spectrometry with an ATR device and the stripping method. Corneometry and spectroscopy were chosen to record simultaneously the hydratation levels and urea localization into superficial cell layers. Urea crystallization after evaporation of emulsions and aqueous solutions is described. Results show that urea does not hydrate nor penetrate when applied to the skin through an aqueous gel. In a W/O emulsion, sodium chloride increases the ability of urea to moisturize without improving penetration. In vitro urea crystallization is disturbed by sodium chloride or magnesium sulphate for solutions and emulsions. This stabilization by ions is correlated with good moisturization values. The stabilization of urea in the solute state provided by ions increases its water epidermal binding capacity without enhancing penetration.