数值水池的一种有效的数值消波方法

本文通过将波高所满足的方程分解成等效的两个x和y方向的一维方程，提出了一种在求解Boussinesq 型方程中进行数值消波的有效方法，在求解方程时采用了一种精度较高的预报校正迭代方法。给出的方法用有实验结果的多向不规则波例子进行了验证。数值结果与实验结果相当吻合。本文的方法解决了波浪仿真中的关键技术：数值消波。     

海洋内部波动的波谱和谱函数Ⅰ─数学模型和计算方法

作者在采用刚盖近似并忽略海底地形和风应力的情况下,用Boussinesq方程组研究了海洋内部波动的波谱和谱函数。在一定条件下对该方程组线性化并取标准模后,可将此初边值问题转化为矩阵的广义特征值问题来数值求解,这样就可知原问题波谱和谱函数的性质。当无基本流且取地转参数、层结参数为常数时,可求得其波谱和谱函数的解析解。此时该模式中仅包含有一对重力惯性内波模态,且各模态均是简谐波;模态越高,垂直波数越大则波动传播得越慢,所有的模态均为离散谱,并存在聚点。本文用该解析解与相应的数值解作了对比,结果表明,该数值求解方案合理可行,对不太高的模态其精度也令人满意。当考虑了层结垂直变化后,一般无法求取解析解,为此作了数值求解。这时该模式仍仅包含有一对重力惯性内波的离散谱模态,不过由于层结参数不是常数,各模态结构与简谐波出现了偏差。     

海洋内部波动的波谱和谱函数Ⅰ-数学模型和计算方法

作者在采用刚盖近似并忽略海底地形和风应力的情况下,用Boussinesq方程组研究了海洋内部波动的波谱和谱函数.在一定条件下对该方程组线性化并取标准模后,可将此初边值问题转化为矩阵的广义特征值问题来数值求解,这样就可知原问题波谱和谱函数的性质.当无基本流且取地转参数、层结参数为常数时,可求得其波谱和谱函数的解析解.此时该模式中仅包含有一对重力惯性内波模态,且各模态均是简谐波;模态越高,垂直波数越大则波动传播得越慢,所有的模态均为离散谱,并存在聚点.本文用该解析解与相应的数值解作了对比,结果表明,该数值求解方案合理可行,对不太高的模态其精度也令人满意.当考虑了层结垂直变化后,一般无法求取解析解,为此作了数值求解.这时该模式仍仅包含有一对重力惯性内波的离散谱模态,不过由于层结参数不是常数,各模态结构与简谐波出现了偏差.     

NUMERICAL SIMULATON OF IMPROVED BOUSSINESQ EQUATIONS BY A FINITE ELEMENT METHOD

1 .　INTRODUCTIONAswavespropagatetowardshore ,acombina tionofshoaling ,reflection ,refractionanddiffrac tioneffectsmodifythewaveform .Numericalmod elbasedonthetwo dimensionalBoussinesqequa tionshavebeenshowntobecapableofsimulatingthewavepropagationinthecoastalregionsaccu rately .ThestandardBoussinesqequationsderivedbyPeregrine[2 ] includethelowestordereffectsofnon linearityandfrequencydispersion .Becausetheerrorinthelineardispersionrelationincreaseswiththeincreaseofwaterdepth ,thestandar…     

Effects of the wave directionality on wave transformation

A numerical model is proposed based on the time domain solution of the Boussinesq equations using the finite element method in this paper. The typical wave diffraction through a breakwater gap is simulated to validate the numerical model. Good agreements are obtained between the numerical and experimental results. Further, the effects of the wave directionality on the wave diffraction through a breakwater gap and the wave transformation on a planar bathymetry are numerically investigated. The results show that the wave directional spreading has a significant effect on the wave diffraction and refraction. However, when the directional spreading parameter s is larger than around 40, the effects of the wave directional spreading on the wave transformation can be neglected in engineering applications.     

新型高阶Boussinesq水波方程

从经典的Boussinesq方程出发，引入两个参数并对方程中的部分项进行替换，通过严格的数学推导给出量级为O(εμ2)的高阶非线性项，得到一种新型的高阶Boussinesq方程。该方程的色散关系比经典Boussinesq方程提高了一阶，变浅作用性能也得到了改善，方程的适用范围由浅水达到中等水深。利用Crank-Nicloson格式的有限差分法对方程进行数值模型在一维方向上进行离散计算，建立了高阶Boussinesq方程的数值模型。为验证数值模型的正确性，将数值计算结果与Zou等(2001)的物模试验结果以及Beji与Nadaoka方程的数值结果进行对比，本文的数值结果与试验结果吻合程度较好，表明本文方程可适于模拟变水深下的波浪场数值模拟。     

浮体在浅水中运动产生的孤立波

本文对在浅水中以跨临界速度运动的浮体产生的兴波问题作了数值计算，用作者提出的求解浮体波动问题的新方法，将浮体与流体接触的物面作为自由表面处理，使Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程用于此问题的全域直接数值求解，数值结果使我们得到了新颖的浮体运动产生的孤立波解。     

Numerical study of edge waves using extended Boussinesq equations

An edge wave numerical model was developed based on extended Boussinesq equations with the internal wave-generation method. The form of edge waves near a seawall was chosen as the input signal in order to avoid treatment of the moving shoreline on a sloping beach. As there was an energy transfer between different edge wave modes, not only the target mode but also other modes appeared in the simulations. Due to the nonlinear effect, the simulation results for mode-0 edge waves were slightly modulated by mode-1 and mode-2 waves. As the magnitudes of these higher-mode waves are not significantly related to those of the target mode, the internal wave-generation method in Boussinesq equations can produce high-quality edge waves. The numerical model was used to investigate the nonlinear properties of standing edge waves, and the numerical results were in strong agreement with theory.     

Numerical simulation of wave transformation,breaking and runup by a contravariant fully non-linear Boussinesq equations model

In this paper we propose a new model based on a contravariant integral form of the fully non-linear Boussinesq equations(FNBE) in order to simulate wave transformation phenomena, wave breaking, runup and nearshore currents in computational domains representing the complex morphology of real coastal regions. The above-mentioned contravariant integral form, in which Christoffel symbols are absent, is characterized by the fact that the continuity equation does not include any dispersive term. The Boussinesq equation system is numerically solved by a hybrid finite volume-finite difference scheme. A high-order upwind weighted essentially non-oscillatory(WENO) finite volume scheme that involves an exact Riemann solver is implemented. The wave breaking is represented by discontinuities of the weak solution of the integral form of the non-linear shallow water equations(NSWE). On the basis of the shock-capturing high order WENO scheme a new procedure, for the computation of the structure of the solution of a Riemann problem associated with a wet/dry front, is proposed in order to simulate the run up hydrodynamics in swash zone. The capacity of the proposed model to correctly represent wave propagation, wave breaking, run up and wave induced currents is verified against test cases present in literature. The results obtained are compared with experimental measures, analytical solutions or alternative numerical solutions. The proposed model is applied to a real case regarding the simulation of wave fields and nearshore currents in the coastal region opposite San Mauro Cilento(Italy).     

Boussinesq方程的二阶椭圆余弦驻波解

等深浅水域中的流体运动可由Boussinesq方程描述.众所周知,该方程有行进波解(孤立波及椭圆余弦波).本文则以Boussinesq方程为控制方程,利用渐近匹配法对椭圆余弦波在直墙上反射进行研究,给出了反射过程中内、外场波形及速度变化的解析表达,从而得到了Boussinesq方程的二阶椭圆余弦驻波型的解析解,并讨论了这类驻波的若干性质.当波长无限增大时,所得解析解收敛于孤立波的情况.这些解析结果不仅有助于揭示岸坡对非线性浅水波影响的力学机理,在海岸防护和开发和岸壁附近结构物的设计条件等工程领域中也具有现实的指导意义.     

应用Boussinesq方程对Genus—2波系的理论研究

本文应用Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程，对由直立防波堤反射而形成Ｇｅｎｕｓ－２波系进行了理论研究。通过对Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程二阶非线性波求解得到了４个不同传播方向的高阶波解。由一阶线性入射波与二阶非线性波的叠加在形成了具有双周期结构的Ｇｅｎｕｓ－２波系结构菱形波面图。通过物模实验，这种Ｇｅｎｕｓ－２波系的菱形波面得以呈现于物模港池中。物模实验与所做的数值结果比较可看出，数值结果与物模实验之值有着较好     

Modelling of 2-D extended Boussinesq equations using a hybrid numerical scheme

In this paper, a hybrid finite-difference and finite-volume numerical scheme is developed to solve the 2-D Boussinesq equations. The governing equations are the extended version of Madsen and Sorensen＇s formulations. The governing equations are firstly rearranged into a conservative form. The finite volume method with the HLLC Riemann solver is used to discretize the flux term while the remaining terms are discretized by using the finite difference method. The fourth order MUSCL-TVD scheme is employed to reconstruct the variables at the left and right states of the cell interface. The time marching is performed by using the explicit second-order MUSCL-Hancock scheme with the adaptive time step. The developed model is validated against various experimental measurements for wave propagation, breaking and runup on three dimensional bathymetries.     

孤立波与潜水台阶相互作用的数值研究

本文用完整二维Navier-Stokes方程和VOF方法研究孤立波与潜水台阶障碍物相互作用问题.本文的计算结果与Seabra-Santos,Penouard and Temperville(1987)的实验结果有较好的一致性,与Germain(1984)基于势流浅水理论的结果较为接近,同时能更好模拟出前传演化波的衰减.只要给出初始孤立波波幅,静水深和潜水台阶障碍物的高度,利用本文方法就能模拟出演化波、分裂波和反射波的波形,并给出每一时刻的自由面形状、流场、涡量和压力的分布.     

Numerical simulation of the internal wave propagation in continuously densitystratified ocean

A numerical model is proposed to simulate the internal wave propagation in a continuously density-stratified ocean, and in the model, the momentum equations are derived from the Euler equations on the basis of the Boussinesq approximation. The governing equations, including the continuity equation and the momentum equations, are discretized with the finite volume method. The advection terms are treated with the total variation diminishing （TVD） scheme, and the SIMPLE algorithm is employed to solve the discretized governing equations. After the modeling test, the suitable TVD scheme is selected. The SIMPLE algorithm is modified to simplify the calculation process, and it is easily made to adapt to the TVD scheme. The Sommerfeld＇s radiation condition combined with a sponge layer is adopted at the outflow boundary. In the water flume with a constant water depth, the numerical results are compared to the analytical solutions with a good agreement. The numerical simulations are carried out for a wave flume with a submerged dike, and the model results are analyzed in detail. The results show that the present numerical model can effectively simulate the propagation of the internal wave.     

BOUSSINESQ MODELLING OF NEARSHORE WAVES UNDER BODY FITTED COORDINATE

A set of nonlinear Boussinesq equations with fully nonlinearity property is solved numerically in generalized coordinates,to develop a Boussinesq-type wave model in dealing with irregular computation boundaries in complex nearshore regions and to facilitate the grid refinements in simulations.The governing equations expressed in contravariant components of velocity vectors under curvilinear coordinates are derived and a high order finite difference scheme on a staggered grid is employed for the numerical implementation.The developed model is used to simulate nearshore wave propagations under curvilinear coordinates,the numerical results are compared against analytical or experimental data with a good agreement.     

A NOVEL ADAPTIVE σ COORDINATE MODEL AND ITS APPLICA- TIONS TO WAVE AND STRUCTURE INTERACTION

In this paper, a novel adaptive mesh σ coordinate model is proposed for the studies of Wave and Structure Interaction (WSI). The model is validated by using the case of a solitary wave movement in an open channel with constant water depth and the case of nonbreaking solitary wave propagating over a step. Numerical results agree well with the analytical solutions obtained based on the Boussinesq theory, the laboratory data and other numerical model results. The proposed model is then used to study a solitary wave interacting with a suspended fixed structure.     

波浪传播的数值模拟与物理模拟耦合模型

此文对于二维波浪的传播建立了数值模拟与物理模拟的耦合模型。模型中,数值模拟采用基于改进Boussinesq方程的三角形网格有限元模型,物理模拟采用推板式造波机。模型的求解采用空间五点的拉格朗日插值和时间的四阶Runge-Kutta格式。通过波浪模拟实验研究了耦合模型在不同波浪要素下的适应性。进一步针对于规则波和不规则波分别建立了实时修正由于造波机造波性能所引起的模拟误差的方法。波浪模拟实验结果表明,耦合边界附近数模结果与物模结果吻合很好,实时修正方法能很好修正由于造波机造波性能所引起的模拟误差,耦合模型和实时修正方法能有效建立起数模与物模的确定性联合。     

数字波浪槽在防波堤预设计中的应用

传统的以物理模型进行的防波堤断面实验被以计算机进行的数字波浪槽代替,边界造波为Bretschneider/Mit-suyasu波浪谱,防波堤断面根据海港水文规范(简称“规范”)设计。以改进的Boussinesq波浪方程,通过引入波浪反射项以数值模拟实现了波浪在水槽中传播的全过程。通过数值水槽获得了波浪在本文防波堤断面前0.45的反射系数,将数值模拟的结果和规范中的反射系数进行了对比得出,数字波浪水槽有满意的精度以及在规范中使用了一定的安全系数,表明数字波浪槽在防波堤的预设计中有重要作用。     

Boussinesq方程波浪数学模型在港池波浪计算中的应用

简要介绍了Boussinesq方程的形式和特点,参考丹麦Abbott等人提出的改进的该方程的形式及解法,初步建立了考虑底摩擦效应、波浪破碎效应的Boussinesq方程波浪数学模型,将其应用于港池波浪计算,并与海港水文规范的计算结果进行对比分析。     

变水深下孤立波对直立大圆柱的绕射

本文以平均速度势表示的Boussinesq方程为控制方程,采用文献[1]中所提出的谱方法,研究孤立波在变水深下对直立大圆柱的绕射。通过数值方法求得圆柱所受到的波浪力系数,讨论水深变化对圆柱波浪力系数的影响。