缝型及接缝方向对针织面料悬垂性的影响

为掌握接缝针织面料的悬垂性能,选用4种具有代表性的针织面料,采用2种缝型、4种接缝方向进行缝合,通过实验研究缝型及接缝方向对针织面料悬垂性的影响.结果表明:试样经缝合后,悬垂系数增大,波纹数减少,最小波谷基本不变,最大波峰增高,波纹分布均匀性变差;绷缝试样的悬垂系数大于包缝试样;缝型和接缝方向对薄型针织面料的悬垂性有显...     

缝制参数与织物组织对缝制性能的影响

织物组织对织物的拼接性能和缝制质量有重要影响。研究了织物组织和缝制参数对织物接缝质量的影响。接缝硬挺度和悬垂系数随着织物组织(平纹、牛津纺和斜纹)的变化而变化。相较于平纹和斜纹织物,牛津织物的缝制效率最高。与平纹织物相比,牛津织物不易产生接缝皱褶。织物悬垂系数还取决于缝纫线的线密度。     

基于图像处理的织物弯曲性能测试方法

织物的弯曲性是体现织物柔软变形能力的重要指标,但关于织物弯曲性的研究大多集中在理论分析而非测试方法。针对这种情况,本文提出一种简便的、可同时测多块织物或多个角度的织物弯曲性能的测试方法--水滴法,并给出了其具体的使用方法以及评价指标--水滴宽度、水滴长度、水滴面积及抗弯系数。最后将20块织物的4项水滴法指标与抗弯长度及抗弯刚度进行对比分析,得出：水滴法中的4项指标与斜面法中的抗弯长度与抗弯刚度相关性从大到小依次是水滴面积、抗弯系数、水滴宽度和水滴长度,且这四者与抗弯长度及抗弯刚度都具有高度线性相关关系。这说明文中作为尝试和探索提出的利用水滴法测试织物弯曲性能是可行的。     

织物悬垂性能的各向差异性研究

为研究织物悬垂性能的各向差异性，对传统的伞式测量法进行改进。选取15种常见织物，采用XDP-1织物悬垂仪对织物0°、90°、45°和135°4个方向的悬垂性进行测试并获取悬垂图像；基于所得图像提出最大展宽、投影面积和悬垂系数3个新指标；最后分析织物各向悬垂性与弯曲长度和抗弯刚度的关系。结果发现：这3个新指标与弯曲长度和抗弯刚度均具有较好的相关性；织物硬挺的方向易形成波峰，柔软的方向易形成波谷，织物某方向的悬垂性越好，越易弯曲，该方向的抗弯能力越小。这表明通过一块圆形试样的悬垂投影可以预估织物某方向的弯曲性能，利用改进的伞式法可以测量织物悬垂性能的各向差异性。     

织物弯曲性与悬垂性测试新方法

织物弯曲性和悬垂性是影响服装外观的重要性能,其测试目前是分开进行的,文章旨在寻找可将其合二为一的方法。首先测试25块织物的弯曲长度和悬垂系数,然后用自行设计的M形测试法提取新的指标,并将其与弯曲长度和悬垂系数进行对比。研究表明:新方法中的指标均与弯曲长度具有较好的相关性,相关性由大到小依次是柔悬系数、横向投影宽度和纵向投影高度,且柔悬系数与悬垂系数也具有较好的相关性。新方法可同时测试织物弯曲性和悬垂性,即利用1块试样可得到2组数据,且可表达织物在任意一个方向上的悬垂性,尤其适合风衣、休闲裤等有方向性要求的织物。     

纬编针织物悬垂性能影响因素的灰色关联分析

为研究纬编针织物的各因素对织物悬垂性能的影响程度,对9种不同原料和不同基本组织的纬编针织物的折皱弹性、抗弯刚度、悬垂性能等进行测试,并结合灰色关联分析法进行研究。通过确定分析数列、无量纲化处理、计算关联系数和关联度建立分析模型,并结合多元分析法进行分析。结果表明,纬编针织物悬垂性能的影响程度由大到小依次为:织物弯曲刚度、线圈长度、克质量、折皱回复角、厚度、线圈个数、纱线线密度;弯曲刚度对悬垂性能起决定性作用,呈线性正相关;其余各因素与悬垂性能之间呈多元线性关系,共同作用于织物的悬垂性能。     

竹/棉交织物弯曲性能相关性分析

为进一步利用好竹浆纤维,对15种不同规格的纯棉纱与竹纤／棉纱交织织物的刚柔性、折皱回复性和悬垂性能进行了测试,并对其进行了相关性分析。结果表明,随着抗弯长度、抗弯刚度和抗弯弹性模量的减小,织物的静态和动态悬垂系数均随之减小,而急弹性回复角和缓弹性回复角随之增大,织物易弯曲,较为柔软。     

鲜茧丝与干茧丝织物性能研究

为研究鲜茧缫丝与干茧缫丝对真丝织物物理机械性能的影响,采用六个庄口的蚕茧,3个织物品种和多种经纬密度,分别将鲜茧丝和干茧丝织造成6组对比织物试样,并对织物试样的光泽度、拉伸性能、折皱回复性、抗弯刚度、悬垂性和透湿性等进行测试和分析。研究结果表明,对于不同庄口织制的各种参数织物品种,鲜茧丝织物的光泽度比干茧丝织物好;鲜茧丝织物的断裂强力和断裂伸长率比干茧丝织物高;由于鲜茧丝织物的折皱回复角、抗弯长度、静态悬垂系数均比干茧丝织物小,鲜茧丝织物的手感较柔软,抗皱性稍差;此外,鲜茧丝织物的透湿性通常比干茧丝织物好。     

薄型精纺毛织物综合服用性能与结构参数的关系

通过对薄型精纺毛织物经纬向拉伸强力、折皱回复角、悬垂系数、经纬向抗弯长度、织物起毛起球性能的测试,并运用Q型聚类分析方法对所测指标与织物的经纬纱线密度、经纬密度、经纬纱捻度、面密度、厚度等结构参数进行分析,得出性能指标与织物结构参数之间的关系。研究表明原料、组织相同,经纬纱线密度相近的薄型毛织物综合服用性能接近;织物的原料对薄型毛织物的服用性能影响最大;织物的面密度、厚度对薄型精纺毛织物综合服用性能影响较小。     

倒Ω法测试织物弯曲性及悬垂性

织物悬垂性和弯曲性的测试是纺织品检测的重要内容,目前这2种性能是分开进行的。针对此现状,以13块常见织物为研究对象,分别测试其弯曲性和悬垂性指标——抗弯刚度和悬垂系数,然后用自行设计的倒Ω法进行测试,并利用图像处理软件提取了水滴高宽比和下垂纵横比等特征参数。经过相关分析得出以下结论:作为尝试提出的倒Ω法可同时用来检测织物弯曲性和悬垂性,所提取的指标与抗弯刚度和悬垂系数具有较好的相关性,相关系数由大到小依次是下垂纵横比、水滴高宽比和水滴面积;利用下垂纵横比与抗弯刚度及悬垂系数的关系式,可以预测织物的弯曲性及悬垂性。     

干洗对服装面辅料配伍性影响的聚类分析

干洗对服装面辅料配伍性的影响程度与服装的品质紧密相关。以冬季女上装常用面料和里料为例,在对试样进行结构参数测试和四氯乙烯、石油溶剂商业干洗,对干洗前后试样的长宽厚尺寸、折皱回复性、悬垂性、刚柔性、色牢度等相关性能指标进行测试的基础上,以SPSS聚类分析法就四氯乙烯和石油溶剂干洗对服装面辅料配伍性的影响进行分析,就干洗对服装面辅料的结构和性能的影响程度以及干洗对面辅料配伍性的主要影响因素作了探讨,并对服装设计师和行业有关部门提出了相关建议。     

风格仪转速与织物悬垂性的关系研究

以16块织物为研究对象,用KES-FB风格测试系统测试了织物的拉伸性能、剪切性能和弯曲性能,运用YG(L)811-DN织物动态悬垂风格仪测试了5个转速下各织物的悬垂系数和波纹数,通过相关分析和方差分析研究了转速对织物悬垂系数与波纹数的影响,结论如下:随转速的增加,织物悬垂系数基本呈线性增加;试样结构参数与织物悬垂系数增加率之间的相关性不明显;而经向弯曲刚度及经、纬向剪切刚度与悬垂系数增加率有显著负相关关系,转速对波纹数没有显著影响。     

织物悬垂性影响因素分析

织物面料制成服装或窗帘等家居用品后，其力学性能构成悬垂性。文章利用实验测试的方法对织物的结构参数和机械性能进行研究，分析织物结构参数和机械性能与悬垂性之间的关系。结果表明，织物的断裂伸长、纬向弯曲刚度和活络率与悬垂性能之间存在密切的关系，而织物厚度和质量对悬垂性的影响不显著。     

Investigation of fabric drape-flexural rigidity relation: modified fabric drape coefficient

Abstract

The drape is an important characteristic of textile fabrics. Several studies have been concerned with the mechanism of fabric drapability and the methods of its measurements. In this study, a new drape coefficient ‘DCM’, evaluating the shape of the fabric drape, is defined in terms of the drape projection, the shape and the number of the folds and the drape angle. The drape of fabric samples with different weft densities and weaves structures was tested. The new formula to express the drape coefficient, taking into consideration the fabric flexural rigidity, was developed. The analysis of the experimental results indicated that the modified drape coefficient is highly correlated with fabric flexure rigidity and other fabric structure properties than the other known formulas.     

Influence of silk,like finishing on polyester fabric drapability北大核心CSCD

Silk, like finishing of pure polyester fabric has been a common industrial treatment method. This method can make polyester fabric closer to the texture of natural silk in terms of drapability and hand feeling. To study the improvement effect of silk, like finishing on fabric drapability, five types of polyester fabrics were treated in different conditions. YG811 fabric drapability tester was used to test the drape coefficient, and the main mechanical performance index was tested by the FAST fabric style tester. It is verified that the silk, like finishing conditions of and structural parameters of fabric have a significant influence on the drapability of treated fabric. For the same fabric with different silk, like finishing, its drape coefficient shows a negative correlation with weight loss ratio and has a linear relation with shear stiffness and bending rigidity. © 2018 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Investigation of tactile comfort properties of the fabrics treated with microcapsules containing phase change materials (PCMs microcapsules)

In this study, it was focused on the investigation of comfort-related properties of the fabrics treated with microcapsules containing phase change materials (PCMs microcapsules). There are limited findings about the effect of prepared PCM microcapsules on fabric properties related with the tactile comfort. In this work, we applied our produced microcapsules to the cotton fabrics and researched these fabrics’ tactile comfort-related properties such as bending rigidity, drape, fabric–fabric friction, and tenacity. One of the outstanding properties of our microcapsules is reactive carboxylic acid groups on their wall. They have the ability to bind to the fabrics in terms of their reactive chemical groups. Microcapsules on the fabrics can be durable to the effects of the rubbing and repeated washings. The fabric test results indicated that air permeability, bending rigidity, tensile strength decrease with the microcapsule treatment, whereas the fabric drape and coefficient of friction of the fabrics increase depending on the amount of microcapsules added on the fabric.     

触感清凉棉织物的制备及其性能

为获得一种具有冰爽舒适性能的针织面料,采用纤维素酶处理棉针织物,然后用冰爽硅油对织物进行整理。通过红外光谱、热重、KES织物风格、毛细效应、透气性、透湿性、热阻、湿阻的测试分析,研究了触感清凉棉织物的性能。结果表明：触感清凉棉织物剪切刚度为0.74 cN/(cm?(°) ),弯曲刚度为0.0073 cN?cm,悬垂系数为30.7%,30 min 毛细效应为12.3 cm, 透气性为352.3 L/(m2?s), 透湿性为4.012 g/ (m2?d), 热阻为0.019 1 m2?°C/W,湿阻为4.687 Pa?m2。经纤维素酶和冰爽硅油处理后,棉织物表面柔软度和滑爽度增加,动摩擦因数为0.206,摩擦因数平均偏差为0.006 2,表面粗糙度为2.250。红外谱图分析结果表明,处理后纤维分子结构中引入了硅油基团。热重分析结果表明,触感清凉棉织物初始分解温度为247.7°C,热稳定性能保持良好。     

芳砜纶针织物的服用性能研究

对芳砜纶针织物的主要服用性能指标进行了测试,对实验数据的分析证明,芳砜纶针织物的顶破强力和棉、毛、腈等常用织物相当,悬垂系数较小,织物较柔软,并具有较好的透气透湿性能和保暖性能,是舒适性较好的阻燃服用面料。但芳砜纶织物耐起毛起球性能差,不耐磨,抗静电性能差,因此芳砜纶服装不适宜在石化和煤矿等抗静电性要求高的场合使用。     

Theoretical and experimental analysis of bending rigidity of plain and twill woven fabrics

The study of bending behavior of woven fabrics is an important issue in textile scientific researches and its industrial applications. Different behavior of fabrics such as drape, comfort, and handling can be understood by this study. Bending rigidity of fabric depends on several factors such as weave geometry, bending rigidity of yarn, and yarn density. In this study, estimation of bending rigidity of woven fabric with different twill and plain structures, have been carried out using energy method. Generally, the woven fabric structure is divided into three different section lengths i.e. rigid, semi-rigid, and flexible sections. Thereafter, bi-component and tri-component models for predicting bending behavior of plain and twill woven fabric have been presented. Then, bending properties of fabric based on Shirley apparatus as well as weight per area as a physical property were measured. Good agreement between measured and predicted values, validated our theoretical models for obtaining bending rigidity, except considerable differences observed between experimental and predicted values using bi-component model of plain fabric. Therefore, using assumptions in calculation of the ratio of rigid section length to flexible section length (R₁), the modified model of plain fabric has been proposed.     

混纺比对棉与竹浆/棉纱交织物弯曲性能的影响

 为进一步利用竹浆纤维的特性开发优良面料,采用了5种不同混纺比的竹浆/棉混纺纬纱与纯棉经纱交织,共设计开发了15种不同规格的面料,对其悬垂性、刚柔性、折皱性进行测试比较。结果表明：和纯棉织物比较,棉与竹浆/棉纱交织物的悬垂性、刚柔性和抗皱性得到显著改善;随着纬纱混纺比中竹浆纤维含量的增加,交织物静、动态悬垂因数减小,悬垂感和形态效果得到有效改善;交织物的抗弯刚度和抗弯弹性模量减小,柔软性提高;交织物弹性回复角增大,折皱回复性能提高,其抗皱性也显著提高;当织物组织、原料及经密相同时,随着交织物中纬密的增大,其悬垂性和刚柔性变差,织物的急、缓弹性回复性能呈下降趋势。当竹浆/棉纬纱混纺比为55/45时,其服用织物形态对称性较差,应慎重选用。