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面料的服用性能与低负荷下的力学性能密切相关。文章用KES系统对10种具有代表性的毛型制服面料在低负荷下的力学性能进行测试,包括拉伸性能、剪切性能、弯曲性能、表面性能、压缩性能,应用灰度关联理论,探讨力学性能与服用性能的关系。结果表明:织物的剪切性能、弯曲性能对织物的服用性能影响较大,其次是拉伸性能,其中剪切性能、弯曲性能对织物的刚柔性影响较大,拉伸性能对织物的抗皱性能影响较为显著。 相似文献
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服装的成形加工和面料在低负荷下的力学性能密切相关.现有制服行业中各类面料标准往往只考虑各种极限条件下的取值,这些取值对服装成形并不具有指导意义.文章选取了15种冬季、春秋季和夏季用的行业制服用外衣面料,采用KES系统测试了低负荷下的力学性能,进行了归并整理,分析了其对服装缝制加工成形的影响及和面料规格的相关性.对于大批量稳定生产的行业制服面料,建议在标准中考核面料低负荷下的力学性能,尤其是弯曲刚度和剪切刚度,对面料厂的设计和织造以及服装企业的缝制加工成形均具有指导意义,避免以往通过手感来判断面料活络等性能存在的主观性. 相似文献
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研究棉涤包芯纱衬衣面料低负荷下的力学性能。试制了不同线密度、组织结构和染整方式的棉涤包芯纱衬衣面料,并进行了平整度及KES系统下低负荷的力学性能测试。结果表明:免烫级别越高的面料,其低负荷下的拉伸性能越差、弯曲刚度和剪切刚度越大,同时弯曲滞后矩和剪切滞后矩也普遍增加。而且,织物紧度对低负荷下的弯曲刚度和剪切刚度也产生了较大影响。织物组织的变化则显著改变了织物的剪切刚度。认为:合理的选择免烫级别和织物参数,限定织物低负荷下的力学性能范围,利于指导免烫衬衣面料的缝制加工,避免缝制过程中的起皱现象。 相似文献
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用KES-F织物风格仪测试了6种PTT毛混纺织物和6种PET/毛混纺织物,对比分析了低负荷条件下PTT/毛混纺织物的基本力学性能.研究表明:PTT/毛混纺织物最大拉伸负荷下的伸长率较大,纬向较PET/毛混纺织物拉伸率差异明显,表明织物弹性良好.PTT/毛混纺织物弯曲滞后、剪切刚度及剪切滞后量较大,与PET/毛混纺织物存在显著差异,表明织物成形性良好;PTT/毛混纺织物较容易压缩,表面平均摩擦系数较大,手感丰满滑糯. 相似文献
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纺织面料的外观质量取决于其低应力条件下的力学性能,成形性对织物外观质量至关重要。讨论了羊毛/聚酯交织精纺西装面料(WSF)中羊毛和聚酯交织比对其低应力力学性能和成形性的影响。根据Ashanhurst织物设计规则,设计了6块WSF面料用于试验。采用Kawabata评价系统(KES-F)测试WSF面料在低应力下的力学性能,从而评价其成形性。试验结果表明随着交织物中羊毛含量的增加,织物的拉伸、剪切和弯曲强度等低应力力学性能均发生改变,最终导致WSF面料的成形性提高。 相似文献
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为探究较精确、易行的测试和表征织物折皱回复角的方法,首先采用KES-F织物风格仪测试了织物的弯曲、剪切、拉伸和压缩性能,并在KES系统原有力学性能指标基础上引入2个新指标:残余弯曲曲率和残余剪切变形,进而通过数据分析建立了采用织物力学性能指标表示其经、纬向折皱回复角的回归方程;同时分析了织物折皱回复角与各力学性能指标间的相关性.结果表明:回归方程的计算值与折皱回复角的实测值差异不超过0.1°:拉伸功回复率、拉伸比功和弯曲刚度对织物折皱回复性的影响最大,可以通过提高织物的抗拉伸、弯曲和剪切性能及拉伸功回复率来改善织物的抗皱性. 相似文献
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织物的弯曲和剪切性能是两个很重要的基本力学性能,是决定织物硬挺柔软度和服装空间曲面造型的主要因素,也是织物风格客观评价的重要内容。 相似文献
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制备同规格的普通黏胶纤维机织物、石墨烯黏胶纤维机织物及不同不锈钢丝质量分数的石墨烯黏胶纤维/不锈钢丝机织物,对比它们的导电、防电磁辐射、防紫外线、抗静电、力学(拉伸、弯曲、耐磨)及透气等性能。结果表明:普通黏胶纤维经石墨烯改进后,所制成的石墨烯黏胶纤维机织物的导电、防电磁辐射、防紫外线、抗静电、力学(拉伸、弯曲、耐磨)等性能都有所改善,其中防紫外线与耐磨性能提高显著,透气性能下降明显;石墨烯黏胶纤维/不锈钢丝机织物的导电、防电磁辐射、防紫外线和抗静电、经向拉伸断裂强力、纬向抗弯刚度、透气性能都优于石墨烯黏胶纤维机织物,纬向拉伸断裂强力、经纬向拉伸断裂伸长率、经向抗弯刚度及耐磨性能不及石墨烯黏胶纤维机织物;随着不锈钢丝质量分数在7.0%~20.0%范围内的增加,石墨烯黏胶纤维/不锈钢丝机织物的导电、防紫外线、抗静电、经向拉伸断裂强力、纬向抗弯刚度及透气性能增强,纬向拉伸断裂强力、经纬向拉伸断裂伸长率、经向抗弯刚度、耐磨性能减小,不锈钢丝质量分数变化对防电磁辐射性能影响较小。当不锈钢丝质量分数为7.0%时,石墨烯黏胶纤维/不锈钢丝机织物的综合性能最佳。 相似文献
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An investigation is described in which the mechanical properties of silk fabrics treated with ethyleneglycol diglycidylether (EDGE) were measured in relation to variations in fabric structure in terms of weight gain. Their mechanical behaviour was determined in bending, in-plane shear, and compressional characteristics experiments. An examination of the mechanical properties of silk fabrics treated with EDGE led to the following conclusions. The value of the bending rigidity (B) in the weft direction clearly increased with an increase in weight gain, which suggested hardening of fabric. The value of the shearing stiffness (G) of the fabric in the warp direction remained unchanged in spite of the epoxide treatment, and the values of the shearing hysteresis (2HG) were linearly related to the weight gain. These results suggest that the observed changes in mechanical behaviour can be largely attributed to an increase in the contact pressure between warp and weft yarns. 相似文献
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利用灰色系统理论,在14种毛精纺面料的压缩性能、弯曲性能、拉伸性能以及稳定性能测试数据的基础上,分析各个因素与面料成形性间的关联度,并对其进行排序,得出影响毛精纺面料成形性的最主要的三个因素为:纬向延伸性、经向湿膨胀率、纬向弯曲刚度。应用线性回归模型对成形性与这三个因素进行定量分析,得出它们之间呈正线性相关,其他因素相关性不大。 相似文献
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以三群判别法为基础,通过自制毛精纺面料样本,求取其基本力学指标、成形性判别值和指标权重等数值,得出面料成形性变化程度(矢量模)和方向(矢量方向),探讨面料成形性动态变化趋势和纬纱结构参数的关系。通过研究得出:当纬纱细度变化量相同时,面料成形性变化矢量模相同,但其意义并不相同;在所采用的纬纱捻系数100~160范围内,一旦捻系数变化量固定不变,其对应样本之间的成形性矢量模差异不变,矢量方向变化由各力学指标权重分配综合确定。验证结果表明:得出的成形性变化矢量模、矢量方向与纬纱结构参数关系式,在一定范围内能较好地反映面料成形性与纬纱结构参数之间的变化关系,可为面料成形性设计提供理论参考。 相似文献
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The aim of the first part of the research was to investigate distance ease distribution between straight shape virtual dress and 3D body in respect to fabrics mechanical (tensile, bending, shear) properties using virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra). The second part would be intended for the basic construction adjustment according to the mechanical properties of textile materials. The objects of the investigations were 100% cotton and cotton-blended plain weave fabrics. Mechanical properties were defined by KES-F (Kawabata). Virtual mannequin was covered with straight virtual dress. Distance ease distribution as well as the values of simulated 3D garment at bust girth ES3D_bust (cm) were investigated. It was defined that distance ease in 3D garment was lower than ease allowance used for 2D basic construction. The strongest effect upon the distance ease between body and garment had tensile strain of fabrics in weft direction. 相似文献
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With the growing demand for more comfortable, healthier and environmentally friendly products, research and development has been increasingly focusing on new environmentally friendly materials and products. One of the environmentally friendly materials is the bamboo fibre with its numerous favourable performing properties. The use of bamboo fibres increases every year, which was the main reason for choosing yarn from the mixture of lyocell fibres and natural bamboo fibres with the ratio 80/20 for the research. With the research, the tensile behaviour of woven fabrics with cotton yarn in warp and lyocell/natural bamboo yarn in the weft direction in comparison with cotton woven fabrics was studied. Twelve fabrics which differed in their construction properties were designed and produced. Two different weaves were chosen, i.e. plain and twill weave, and three different densities in weft. The results of the research show that the presence of lyocell/natural bamboo yarn in the weft direction improves the mechanical properties such as breaking stress, stress in the yield point, elasticity modulus in the weft direction of analysed fabrics, while in the warp direction, the weave type and weave density express a greater influence on the mechanical properties of analysed fabrics. 相似文献