基于层次分析法的服装号型选择

为解决线上购买服装不合体的问题,以女裤为例,依据人体体型对应服装的关键控制部位,建立以身高、腰围高、直裆长、腰围、臀围、大腿围、膝围和脚腕围等为构成因素的服装号型选择层次结构模型。针对5名不同体型的实验对象,运用层次分析法的权重计算确定其购买裤装的理想尺码分别为L(168/69)、XL(171/72)、S(161/63)、XXL(173/74.5)和L(155/70)。经回访调研结果与该实验一致,证明层次分析法应用于服装号型选择可有效辨别影响裤装尺码各因素,为顾客线上购买裤装提供尺码依据。     

基于三维人体测量的江浙女模特体型分类

 针对现国家号型中缺少模特体型这一问题,利用三维人体测量技术,对192名年龄在18-24岁江浙女模特进行60项指标测量,利用SPSS软件进行主成分分析,将60多项测量变量压缩到身高,胸围,腰围,臀围,腰高这5方面。然后进行分层聚类分析,得出适合K-均值聚类法中的分类数,通过K-均值聚类法得到Y型体的模特号型标准：身高分别为170cm,175cm,180cm;腰高109cm,112cm,105cm;胸围84cm,87cm, 90cm;腰围分别为62.5cm,65.5cm,68.5cm,臀围90cm,92.5cm, 95cm。     

BP神经网络下的智能化合体服装样板生成

为快速得出符合顾客体型的服装样板,以男西裤为基准样板,腰围和臀围部位的变更规则为研究对像,格柏CAD 为技术开发平台,依据大量人体数据对样板原有的变更规则进行优化和重建,采用BP 神经网络算法建立了人体腰围、臀围尺寸变化量与相应的变更规则之间的神经网络模型。直接采用数据与数据的匹配归档,最终实现男西裤腰腹部和臀部变更规则的参数化设计,即给定一个腰围、臀围的变化量就得到一个相应的变更规则,通过调用此变更规则就会自动得出符合这个尺寸的样片,初步实现一人一板,提高了服装的合体度,减少了对样板师的依赖性。     

针织女裤号型系列设计研究

为了使针织裤装的规格设定能够按照产品品类和目标顾客进行细分,从人体测量数据分析入手,探讨了青年女性的尺寸分布情况,确定了相应的中心号型,即身高160 cm、腰围65 cm.对比目前企业中常用针织裤装号型系列存在的问题,研究采用目标人群数据分布图的方式直观地进行号型系列设计,提出了以中心号型为核心的系列设计和扩展设计方案.     

我国将实行新的服装号型标准

新服装号型标准为系列标准.分男、女及儿童三个部分.男、女都按胸围及腰围的差数大小分为Y、A、B、C四种体型.依次为瘦、适中、微胖、胖型.新标准中的“号”为身高.“型”为胸围(上装)或腰围(下装).儿童服装的新号型标准不分体型而以身高1.3米为界.1.3米以下的儿童不     

浙江金华地区小学女生服装号型分析

采用接触式人体测量方法对随机抽取的190名浙江省金华地区7~13岁小学女生的9个部位尺寸进行测量,运用数理统计分析软件SPSS对测得的人体数据进行描述性统计、聚类分析、回归分析等多种方式的分析和统计,定性、定量地描述小学女生各部位尺寸特征及其趋势。得出小学女生身高、胸围、腰围、臀围、坐姿颈椎点高、腰围高、臂长、总肩宽随年龄的变化关系,总结小学女生体型变化规律;同时,分析该地区小学女生体型的变化,依据身高将小学女生的体型划分为A、B、C 3种体型,并制订出适合金华地区小学女生体型特点的服装号型系列、各系列的分档数值以及各系列控制部位数值。建立了人体数据库,细化了童装号型标准,可为女童服装的生产提供参考。     

西安地区小学生服装号型分类

针对目前小学生服装号型与其体型不匹配的问题,选取西安地区851名7～10岁小学生,用手工测量方式获得人体数据。通过K-means聚类法对获得的人体数据进行聚类,并用组内平方误差和确定最佳聚类数,得到X、Y和Z等3种西安地区小学生体型,以及符合西安地区小学男、女生中间体的服装号型,即男生140/65和140/61,女生135/63和135/59。采用回归分析得出手臂长、肩宽、臀围和腰围高4个主要部位与身高、胸围的关系,并计算出7个部位的分档值。所得数据为服装企业在进行小学生校服设计及生产中提供参考。     

青年女性裤装号型细分方法研究

现行的女性号型数据采样没有专门针对裤装进行细致分析,因而造成适合裤装制作的人体体型控制部位较少,难以适应现今女裤的款式设计,特别是紧身、低腰裤的制作.同时以胸腰差来划分体型对裤装设计的意义不大,对关系裤装裆部造型的人体数据关注较少.因而消费者在穿着过程中易出现臀围合适,却腰、腹部过松,或裆过紧等诸多问题.     

基于三维人体测量的青年女裤裆部设计合理性研究

结合先进的非接触式三维人体测量技术,对青年女性的人体数据进行统计,发现现行的女裤号型标准和基本纸样已经存在一些问题。对样本人体数据的分析,我们可以看到现代女青年体型的发展趋势是腰围变小,臀围变大,整体呈现腰臀差变大。利用SPSS软件对数据进行线性分析,我们可以得到裤装制版过程中的非测量值与常规测量值之间的比例关系,如立裆深与身高和臀围的关系,从而修正现有女裤基本纸样中采用的比例法确定的数据。     

选购西装几要素

西装为正规场合的首选服装,其质地、做工的优劣直接影响着西装的品位和穿看效果。下面介绍几种选购方法。 号型的选择 西装穿着合适是美观的基本条件。要选择适合自己的西装,首先要明确自身的主要尺寸,如身高.胸围、腰围等,然后再查着所购西装的号型和体型分类代号,对号选衣。例如,上衣175/92A,下装175/78A。该西装适合于身高为175cm,净胸围为92cm。净腰围为78cm,胸围和腰围的差值在12cm-16cm之间的身材穿着。     

Reliable identification of grapevine rootstock varieties using RAPD PCR on woody samples

Since grapevine ( Vitis spp .) rootstock material is being traded increasingly as disbudded woody material a lack of distinctive morphological features on such material necessitates an alternative and reliable means of identification. Methods described here were developed for rapid and efficient extraction of DNA from woody samples rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides, and for subsequent identification of varieties by RAPD PCR. Using these methods, and with the application of only one selected RAPD primer, we were able to differentiate sixteen rootstock varieties, including the seven varieties most commonly used in Germany. Problems commonly encountered with reproducibility of RAPD patterns were avoided by choosing primers with a dinucleotide sequence and a high G/C content that allowed a rather high annealing temperature of 45°C. Methods described here should also be useful for other horticultural crops, especially those with woody tissues rich in phenolic compounds and polysaccharides.     

An internet compendium of analytical methods and spectroscopic information for monomers and additives used in food packaging plastics

An internet website (http://cpf.jrc.it/smt/) has been produced as a means of dissemination of methods of analysis and supporting spectroscopic information on monomers and additives used for food contact materials (principally packaging). The site which is aimed primarily at assisting food control laboratories in the European Union contains analytical information on monomers, starting substances and additives used in the manufacture of plastics materials. A searchable index is provided giving PM and CAS numbers for each of 255 substances. For each substance a data sheet gives regulatory information, chemical structures, physico-chemical information and background information on the use of the substance in particular plastics, and the food packaging applications. For monomers and starting substances (155 compounds) the infra-red and mass spectra are provided, and for additives (100 compounds); additionally proton NMR are available for about 50% of the entries. Where analytical methods have been developed for determining these substances as residual amounts in plastics or as trace amounts in food simulants these methods are also on the website. All information is provided in portable document file (PDF) format which means that high quality copies can be readily printed, using freely available Adobe Acrobat Reader software. The website will in future be maintained and up-dated by the European Commission's Joint Research Centre (JRC) as new substances are authorized for use by the European Commission (DG-ENTR formerly DGIII). Where analytical laboratories (food control or other) require reference substances these can be obtained free-ofcharge from a reference collection housed at the JRC and maintained in conjunction with this website compendium.     

Chlorohydrins of bisphenol A diglycidyl ether (BADGE) and of bisphenol F diglycidyl ether (BFDGE) in canned foods and ready-to-drink coffees from the Japanese market

BADGE.2HCl and BFDGE.2HCl were determined in 28 samples of ready-to-drink canned coffee and 18 samples of canned vegetables (10 corn, 5 tomatoes and 3 others), all from the Japanese market. HPLC was used as the principal analytical method and GCMS for confirmation of relevant LC fractions. BADGE.2HCl was found to be present in one canned coffee and five samples of corn, BFDGE.2HCl in four samples of canned tomatoes and in one canned corn. No sample was found which exceeded the 1mg/kg limit of the EU for the BADGE chlorohydrins. However the highest concentration was found for the sum of BFDGE.2HCl and BFDGE.HCl.H₂O at a level of 1.5mg/kg. A Beilstein test confirmed that all cans containing foods contaminated with BADGE.2HCl or BFDGE.2HCl had at lest one part coated with a PVC organosol.     

European priorities for research to support legislation in the area of food contact materials and articles

A strong science base is required to underpin the planning and decision-making process involved in determining future European community legislation on materials and articles in contact with food. Significant progress has been made in the past 5 years in European funded work in this area, with many developments contributing to a much better understanding of the migration process, and better and simpler approaches to food control. In this paper this progress is reviewed against previously identified work-areas (identified in 1994) and conclusions are reached about future requirements for R&D to support legislation on food contact materials and articles over the next 5 or so years.     

Aroma characterization of various apricot varieties using headspace–solid phase microextraction combined with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry and gas chromatography–olfactometry

The characterization of the aromatic profile of several apricot cultivars with molecular tracers in order to obtain objective data concerning the aromatic quality of this fruit was undertaken using headspace–solid phase microextraction (HS–SPME). Six apricot cultivars were selected according to their organoleptic characteristics: Iranien, Orangered, Goldrich, Hargrand, Rouge du Roussillon and A4025. The aromatic intensity of these varieties measured by HS–SPME–Olfactometry were defined and classified according to the presence and the intensity of grassy, fruity and apricot like notes. In the six varieties, 23 common volatile compounds were identified by HS–SPME–GC–MS. Finally, 10 compounds, ethyl acetate, hexyl acetate, limonene, β-cyclocitral, γ-decalactone, 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one, linalool, β-ionone, menthone and (E)-hexen-2-al were recognized by HS–SPME–GC–O as responsible of the aromatic notes involved in apricot aroma and considered as molecular tracers of apricot aromatic quality which could be utilized to discriminate apricot varieties.     

Tests of potential functional barriers for laminated multilayer food packages. Part I: Low molecular weight permeants

The advent of the functional barrier concept in food packaging has brought with it a requirement for fast tests of permeation through potential barrier materials. In such tests it would be convenient for both foodstuffs and materials below the functional barrier (sub-barrier materials) to be represented by standard simulants. By means of inverse gas chromatography, liquid paraffin spiked with appropriate permeants was considered as a potential simulant of sub-barrier materials based on polypropylene (PP) or similar polyolefins. Experiments were performed to characterize the kinetics of the permeation of low molecular weight model permeants (octene, toluene and isopropanol) from liquid paraffin, through a surrogate potential functional barrier (25 μm-thick oriented PP) into the food simulants olive oil and 3% (w/v) acetic acid. These permeation results were interpreted in terms of three permeation kinetic models regarding the solubility of a particular model permeant in the post-barrier medium (i.e. the food simulant). The results obtained justify the development and evaluation of liquid sub-barrier simulants that would allow flexible yet rigorous testing of new laminated multilayer packaging materials.     

Textural Properties of Cold-set Gels Induced from Heat-denatured Whey Protein Isolates

A 9% whey protein (WP) isolate solution at pH 7.0 was heat-denatured at 80°C for 30 min. Size-exclusion HPLC showed that native WP formed soluble aggregates after heat-treatment. Additions of CaCl2 (10–40 mM), NaCl (50–400 mM) or glucono-delta-lactone (GDL, 0.4–2.0%, w/v) or hydrolysis by a protease from Bacillus licheniformis caused gelation of the denatured solution at 45°C. Textural parameters, hardness, adhesiveness, and cohesiveness of the gels so formed changed markedly with concentration of added salts or pH by added GDL. Maximum gel hardness occurred at 200 mM NaCl or pH 4.7. Increasing CaCl2 concentration continuously increased gel hardness. Generally, GDL-induced gels were harder than salt-induced gels, and much harder than the protease-induced gel.     

Influence des ions sur le pouvoir hydratant de l'ure e: e tude sur peau de porc ex vivo

This study deals with the influence of ions (NaCl and MgSO4) in a W/O emulsion containing 10% urea. Moisturization kinetics are assessed by corneometry on pig skin ex vivo. The formula's influence on urea penetration is measured by infrared spectrometry with an ATR device and the stripping method. Corneometry and spectroscopy were chosen to record simultaneously the hydratation levels and urea localization into superficial cell layers. Urea crystallization after evaporation of emulsions and aqueous solutions is described. Results show that urea does not hydrate nor penetrate when applied to the skin through an aqueous gel. In a W/O emulsion, sodium chloride increases the ability of urea to moisturize without improving penetration. In vitro urea crystallization is disturbed by sodium chloride or magnesium sulphate for solutions and emulsions. This stabilization by ions is correlated with good moisturization values. The stabilization of urea in the solute state provided by ions increases its water epidermal binding capacity without enhancing penetration.     

Occurrence of bisphenol-F-diglycidyl ether (BFDGE) in fish canned in oil

The levels of bisphenol-F-diglycidyl ether (BFDGE) were quantified as part of a European survey on the migration of residues of epoxy resins into oil from canned fish. The contents of BFDGE in cans, lids and fish collected from all 15 Member States of the European Union and Switzerland were analysed in 382 samples. Cans and lids were separately extracted with acetonitrile. The extraction from fish was carried out with hexane followed by re-extraction with acetonitrile. The analysis was performed by reverse phase HPL C with fluorescence detection. BFDGE could be detected in 12% of the fish, 24% of the cans and 18% of the lids. Only 3% of the fish contained BFDGE in concentrations considerably above 1mg/kg. In addition to the presented data, a comparison was made with the levels of BADGE (bisphenol-A-diglycidyl ether)analysed in the same products in the context of a previous study.